Qubbet el-Hawa Tombs (Tombs of the Nobles, Aswan)

Who was buried at Qubbet el-Hawa?

The hill holds the tombs of the governors and officials of Elephantine, the frontier province facing Nubia, cut into the rock from the late Old Kingdom to the Middle Kingdom. These men ran the southern border, the cataract trade and the expeditions sent south for ivory, ebony, incense and animal skins, and their tomb inscriptions are our main source for Egypt's early contacts with Africa.

The name, Arabic for "Dome of the Wind", comes from the small domed shrine of a local holy man on the summit. The tombs open onto a terrace partway up the slope, linked to the river by steep ancient causeways still visible from the water. A Spanish mission has been excavating the hill since 2008 and continues to find previously unknown burials.

Which tombs should you see?

The essential tombs are Harkhuf's, for its inscription, Sarenput II's, for its painted interior, and the joint tomb of Mekhu and Sabni, for its story. Which tombs are open varies, so ask at the ticket office or let your guide plan the order.

• Harkhuf: the façade carries the autobiography of a 6th-dynasty governor who led four expeditions to the land of Yam, deep in Nubia. It quotes a letter from the boy king Pepi II, delighted that Harkhuf is bringing back a dancing pygmy, and urging him to guard the child so carefully that someone sleeps beside him at night. It is one of the most human documents from ancient Egypt.
• Sarenput II: a 12th-dynasty governor's tomb with a corridor of niches holding Osiride statues and a back niche whose painted scenes of Sarenput and his family are still fresh.
• Sarenput I: larger and earlier, with a carved façade and pillared court; partly damaged but impressive in scale.
• Mekhu and Sabni: a father and son. Mekhu died on an expedition in Nubia and his son Sabni led a mission to bring his body home for proper burial, recorded on the walls.
• Pepinakht-Heqaib: a governor later worshipped as a local saint, with a shrine on Elephantine Island across the water.

How hard is the climb, and is the view worth it?

Expect about 15 minutes up a steep stairway and sandy slope to the tomb terrace, and a further short scramble to the summit; it is hard work in heat but manageable for most people of reasonable fitness. There are no handrails on parts of the path, and the sand is loose, so wear shoes with grip. Travellers with mobility problems can see the tomb façades from a felucca instead.

The reward is the finest view in Aswan: the islands and boulders of the cataract, Kitchener's Island, the town and its Corniche, and the desert running west towards the Monastery of St Simeon. At sunset the river turns copper and the feluccas come in to moor. It is also the best place to understand the geography of the cataract, with the granite islands laid out below you like a map.

When should you go?

Late afternoon is ideal: the west-facing tombs are in shade by then, the climb is cooler and you finish at the top for sunset. Ask about closing time before you start, as the site normally shuts around dusk. In summer the slope is brutally exposed in the middle of the day; go at opening time instead. From October to March any time is pleasant, and you may have the hill nearly to yourself, as cruise programmes rarely include it.

How do you get there and buy tickets?

Take the public ferry or a motorboat from the Corniche near the northern end of town; the crossing to the west-bank landing below the hill takes about 10 minutes. The ticket office is at the foot of the stairs. Ticket prices change, so check egymonuments.gov.eg, and carry small notes for the guardians who unlock the tombs and expect a tip for doing so (our tipping guide has typical amounts).

Qubbet el-Hawa combines naturally with Elephantine or a felucca sail. If you have two days in Aswan, our Aswan in two days itinerary shows how to fit it in.

Inside the tombs, photography rules vary and some require a separate photo ticket, so ask at the office. Bring a torch or use your phone light for the inner chambers, which are dark, and a scarf or hat for the summit, where there is no shade at all. A cafe at the landing sells cold drinks for the return wait.