Aswan in Two Days: Philae, the Nile by Felucca, and Abu Simbel or the Nubian West Bank

Is two days enough for Aswan?

Two days is enough to see Aswan's main sights and either Abu Simbel or the Nubian villages, but not both comfortably. Aswan's appeal is as much the river itself, with its granite boulders, feluccas and the desert running down to the west bank, as its monuments, so a plan that leaves a little slack works better here than anywhere else in Egypt.

Two days suits travellers who start or finish a Nile cruise in Aswan and want time beyond the cruise's single Aswan day, and land-based travellers driving down from Luxor in about three hours. If you are on a cruise, check what it already includes: most Luxor to Aswan itineraries visit Philae, the High Dam and the Unfinished Obelisk, in which case swap those for Elephantine Island and the Nubian Museum on day one. Our Luxor vs Aswan comparison explains how the two cities differ.

Day 1: Philae, the dam and the obelisk, then the river at sunset

Do the three southern sights in the cool of the morning, take the Nubian Museum at midday, and give the late afternoon to a felucca and a sunset climb.

Philae's opening time has been around 7am at the time of writing, and its boat fare is separate from the entry ticket; agree the boat price at the marina. Sunset times range from about 5pm in December to after 6.30pm in June, so adjust the afternoon.

Day 2, option A: Abu Simbel and back

If Abu Simbel is not already in your plans, use day two for it: leave Aswan at about 4am, have two hours at the temples, and be back by early afternoon. The two temples of Ramesses II and Nefertari, moved block by block in the 1960s to escape Lake Nasser, are the most spectacular sight in southern Egypt.

• 4.00–4.30am: Hotel pickup with a breakfast box. The 280 km desert road takes about 3 to 3.5 hours.
• 7.30–9.30am: The Great Temple, its four 20-metre colossi and the sanctuary, then the Temple of Nefertari next door.
• 9.30am–1.00pm: Drive back to Aswan, arriving about 1pm.
• 1.00–4.00pm: Lunch and a proper rest; you have been up since before 4am.
• 4.00–7.00pm: Motorboat through the cataract to Gharb Soheil, a brightly painted Nubian village about 45 minutes upriver, returning by boat after dark. Or keep it simple with sunset drinks on the Old Cataract terrace.

Flying instead takes about 45 minutes each way but flights are limited and often timed around cruise passengers. Our Abu Simbel by road or air comparison and the Abu Simbel day trip guide cover the details, and the Abu Simbel destination page explains the temples.

Day 2, option B: Elephantine, St Simeon and the Nubian west bank

If you have seen Abu Simbel or are seeing it on another day, make day two a river day: an island of ancient ruins in the morning, a desert monastery by camel at midday, and a Nubian village in the afternoon.

1. 8.00–10.30am: Elephantine Island. A public ferry or private boat crosses in under 10 minutes. See the ruins of ancient Abu, the Nilometer and the temples of Khnum and Satet, then walk through the Nubian villages of Siou and Koti.
2. 11.00am–1.30pm: Monastery of St Simeon. Boat to the west bank below the Aga Khan Mausoleum, then 20 to 30 minutes by camel or on foot across the sand to the 7th-century monastery. Take water: there is no shade on the way.
3. 1.30–3.30pm: Lunch and rest.
4. 3.30–6.30pm: Gharb Soheil, by motorboat past Sehel Island. Visit a Nubian home for tea, try henna, and return as the sun sets.
5. Evening: The Aswan souq, a long street of spices, baskets and dried hibiscus a few minutes' walk inland from the Corniche.

Read our Nubian village visit guide for etiquette and what to expect.

How do you choose between the two day-two options?

Choose Abu Simbel if this is your only chance to see it; choose the river day if you have already been, are travelling with young children, or simply want a day without a 4am alarm.

Abu Simbel is a commitment: around seven hours on the road for two hours on site. It is worth it for almost everyone on a first visit, and we include it on most of our Nile itineraries. But the river day shows the side of Aswan many people end up loving most: Nubian culture, which has its own language and architecture, and the views from the west bank. If you can, add a third night and do both. Note also that around 22 February and 22 October each year the Sun Festival fills Abu Simbel with thousands of visitors from about 4am, which changes the plan entirely.

What can you do in Aswan in the evenings?

Aswan's evenings are slow and mostly on or beside the river: the souq, a Nubian dinner, a drink on a terrace above the cataract, or the sound and light show at Philae. After a 4am start for Abu Simbel, any of them can be done in two hours.

• The souq. Aswan's market street runs parallel to the Corniche and comes alive after dark. Look for dried hibiscus (karkadeh), Nubian baskets and spices; haggling is expected but far gentler than in Cairo.
• Nubian food. Several restaurants on the west bank and on Elephantine serve Nubian dishes such as slow-cooked stews and flatbreads; many include a boat transfer from the Corniche.
• The Old Cataract terrace. Non-residents can usually book the terrace for afternoon tea or sunset drinks, with the view over Elephantine and the granite islands; reservations and a smart-casual dress code apply.
• Sound and light at Philae. Narrated shows run on most evenings, with a boat across to the island in the dark. See sound and light shows in Egypt for languages and timings.

Where to stay and other tips for two days in Aswan

Stay on the Corniche or on an island hotel with a free shuttle boat, carry small notes for boats, and keep the middle of the day indoors.

• Hotels. The Sofitel Legend Old Cataract is the historic choice; island hotels on Elephantine are quieter. Our where to stay in Aswan guide compares the options.
• Boats. Felucca and motorboat prices are per boat; agree the price, the route and whether waiting time is included before you set off.
• Heat. Aswan is the hottest city on the tourist route. From May to September, start at opening time and stay inside from about 11am to 4pm.
• Moving on. Aswan airport is about 25 minutes from town, with flights of about 1 hour 20 minutes to Cairo; the road to Luxor takes about three hours, or longer with stops at Kom Ombo and Edfu.