Most visitors see Egypt as a Nile valley country, and three weeks lets you see what lies beyond it. After the pyramids and the Grand Egyptian Museum, you head north to Alexandria on the Mediterranean, then west along the coast to El Alamein, where the Australian 9th Division fought in 1942, and on to Siwa, a palm-filled oasis close to the Libyan border.
From Siwa, a 4WD crossing takes you to Bahariya and on through the Black Desert to the White Desert, where wind-carved chalk formations rise from the sand and you camp under a sky full of stars. Then you return to the Nile for Aswan, Abu Simbel and a three-night cruise to Luxor, before finishing on the Red Sea.
This is our most adventurous itinerary, with long drives in the Western Desert and one night of comfortable camping. It's the trip for travellers who want to say they have really seen Egypt.
Journey highlights
- Giza pyramids, the Grand Egyptian Museum, Saqqara and Islamic Cairo
- Alexandria's Bibliotheca, Qaitbay Citadel and the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa
- El Alamein War Cemetery, where many Australian soldiers are buried
- Siwa Oasis: Shali fortress, the Oracle of Amun and Cleopatra's Spring
- 4WD Western Desert crossing and a night camping in the White Desert
- Abu Simbel and Philae
- 3-night Nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor
- Three nights on the Red Sea in El Gouna
Day-by-day itinerary
- Day1
Arrive in Cairo
You are met at the airport and driven privately to your Giza hotel. Rest after the long journey from Australia.
- Day2
Pyramids and the Grand Egyptian Museum
See the Giza pyramids and the Sphinx at opening time, then spend the afternoon in the Grand Egyptian Museum with the complete Tutankhamun collection and the Solar Boat of Khufu.
- Day3
Saqqara, Memphis and Dahshur
Visit Djoser's Step Pyramid and the Old Kingdom tombs at Saqqara, the colossal statue of Ramses II at Memphis, and the Red and Bent Pyramids of Dahshur.
- Day4
Islamic and Coptic Cairo
Visit the Citadel and the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, walk historic al-Muizz Street, then go to Coptic Cairo for the Hanging Church and Ben Ezra Synagogue. End the evening in Khan el-Khalili.
- Day5
Drive to Alexandria
Drive about 3 hours north to Alexandria. Visit the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa, Pompey's Pillar, the modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina and the 15th-century Qaitbay Citadel, built on the site of the ancient Pharos lighthouse. Eat seafood on the Corniche.
- Day6
El Alamein and Marsa Matruh
Follow the Mediterranean coast west to El Alamein (about 2 hours). Visit the Commonwealth War Cemetery, where many soldiers of the Australian 9th Division are buried, and the war museum. Continue to Marsa Matruh for the night.
- Day7
Into the desert to Siwa
Drive about 4 hours south across the desert to Siwa Oasis. In the late afternoon, climb the mud-brick ruins of the Shali fortress, then watch the sunset from Fatnas Island over the salt lakes.
- Day8
Siwa Oasis and the Great Sand Sea
Visit the Temple of the Oracle of Amun, where Alexander the Great came to consult the oracle, the Mountain of the Dead and Cleopatra's Spring. In the afternoon, take a 4WD into the dunes of the Great Sand Sea to sandboard and swim in a hot spring.
- Day9
Desert crossing to Bahariya
Make a full-day 4WD crossing east from Siwa to Bahariya Oasis, about 400 km of desert track. The route requires permits, which we arrange in advance; if they are not granted, we reroute via the coast and Cairo. Overnight in a desert lodge in Bawiti.
- Day10
Black Desert, Crystal Mountain and White Desert camp
Drive through the Black Desert's dark volcanic hills, stop at Crystal Mountain and Agabat valley, and arrive in the White Desert for sunset among the chalk formations. Your team sets up a comfortable camp with mattresses, blankets and dinner cooked over the fire.
- Day11
Sunrise in the White Desert, return to Cairo
Watch the sunrise light up the chalk formations, then drive back to Cairo (about 6–7 hours with stops). Overnight in Cairo.
- Day12
Fly to Aswan
Take the morning flight to Aswan. Visit Philae Temple, the Unfinished Obelisk and the High Dam, and finish with a felucca sail around Elephantine Island at sunset.
- Day13
Abu Simbel
Travel to Abu Simbel by road (about 3 hours each way) or by a 45-minute flight to see the temples of Ramses II and Nefertari. Spend a relaxed afternoon in Aswan.
- Day14
Board your Nile cruise, Nubian village
Board your ship in Aswan and take a boat to a Nubian village on the west bank in the afternoon.
- Day15
Kom Ombo and Edfu
Sail north to visit the double temple at Kom Ombo and the Temple of Horus at Edfu, watching the river villages from the sundeck.
- Day16
Esna lock and Luxor
Pass through the Esna lock and arrive in Luxor. Spend the afternoon at Karnak and Luxor Temple.
- Day17
Valley of the Kings, disembark
Disembark and visit the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's temple and the Colossi of Memnon. Overnight at a Luxor hotel.
- Day18
Drive to El Gouna
Start with an optional dawn balloon flight, then drive about 4 hours to El Gouna on the Red Sea.
- Days19–20
Red Sea at leisure
Snorkel the Giftun Islands, try diving or kitesurfing, or simply rest on the beach after three weeks on the road.
- Day21
Fly to Cairo and depart
Fly from Hurghada to Cairo (about 1 hour) and connect to your international flight home.
Where you’ll stay
| Location | Accommodation |
|---|---|
| Cairo (Giza), 4 nights | Marriott Mena House or similar |
| Alexandria, 1 night | Steigenberger Cecil Hotel or similar |
| Marsa Matruh, 1 night | Best available beachfront hotel |
| Siwa Oasis, 2 nights | Siwa Shali Resort or similar (Adrère Amellal eco-lodge on request) |
| Bahariya, 1 night | Locally run desert lodge in Bawiti |
| White Desert, 1 night | Private camp with mattresses and bedding |
| Cairo, 1 night | Kempinski Nile Hotel Garden City or similar |
| Aswan, 2 nights | Mövenpick Resort Aswan or similar |
| Nile cruise, 3 nights | Sonesta St. George I or similar five-star ship |
| Luxor, 1 night | Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor or similar |
| El Gouna, 3 nights | Steigenberger Golf Resort El Gouna or similar |
What’s included
- 16 nights in hotels and lodges with daily breakfast
- 1 night of private camping in the White Desert with all meals
- 3-night five-star Nile cruise Aswan to Luxor with full board
- Domestic flights Cairo–Aswan and Hurghada–Cairo
- Private Egyptologist guide and private vehicle throughout, plus 4WD with driver and desert crew in the Western Desert
- Desert permits for the Siwa–Bahariya crossing
- Standard entry fees to all sites in the itinerary
- Airport meet-and-assist service and 24/7 local support
Not included
- International flights from Australia (we can quote and book these)
- Egypt visa fee
- Travel insurance (compulsory)
- Optional extras such as the Luxor balloon flight, the Abu Simbel flight and Tutankhamun's tomb
- Meals not listed and drinks
- Tips for guides, drivers, desert crew and hotel staff
Destinations on this journey
Cairo & Giza · Alexandria · Siwa Oasis · White Desert · Aswan · Abu Simbel · Luxor · Red Sea Coast
Ultimate Egypt in 21 Days: Alexandria, Siwa, White Desert, Nile & Red Sea: FAQs
Is the Western Desert safe to visit?
The Siwa, Bahariya and White Desert areas are visited by tourists with licensed operators, and some routes require permits. Advice can differ by region, so check the current Smartraveller advice for Egypt and read our Is Egypt safe? guide.
What is camping in the White Desert like?
It is comfortable, simple camping: thick mattresses, blankets, a windbreak tent and a campfire dinner cooked by your crew. There are basic toilet arrangements but no showers. Most guests say it is the highlight of the trip. See our White Desert guide.
Why visit El Alamein?
El Alamein was the site of the decisive 1942 battles in North Africa, in which the Australian 9th Division played a major role. The Commonwealth War Cemetery is a moving stop for many Australians and New Zealanders.
How long are the desert drives?
The longest days are Siwa to Bahariya (a full day by 4WD) and the White Desert back to Cairo (about 6–7 hours). Other legs are 2–4 hours. Our Siwa Oasis guide covers the routes.
Can we shorten this tour?
Yes. Removing Siwa saves four days, and you can still visit the White Desert from Cairo in two days and one night. Our Egypt itinerary guide shows other combinations.
