Monastery of St Simeon

What is the Monastery of St Simeon?

It is a fortified desert monastery, one of the largest and best preserved in Egypt, built by Coptic monks within sight of Aswan but cut off from it by sand. It was dedicated to Anba Hadra, a 4th-century local hermit who became bishop of Aswan, and the name St Simeon was attached to it later. The first buildings probably date to the 7th century, and much of what stands was rebuilt in the 10th and 11th centuries.

At its height the monastery is thought to have housed a few hundred monks and offered lodgings to pilgrims and caravans crossing the desert. It was abandoned in the 13th century; traditional accounts say it was damaged in Saladin's campaigns in the 1170s and later lack of water made it impossible to sustain, though the exact sequence is uncertain. The dry climate has preserved it remarkably well.

What can you see inside?

Inside the walls are two levels: a lower terrace with the church and a higher one with the three-storey keep where the monks lived, plus kitchens, workshops and storerooms. The enclosure walls, stone at the base and mud brick above, rise up to about 10 metres and give it the look of a castle.

• The church: a basilica whose domes have collapsed, with faded paintings in the eastern apse, including Christ enthroned with angels, and saints in the side niches. Many faces were scratched out in later centuries.
• The cave chapel: a rock-cut chapel beside the church, thought to be where the monks' earliest hermit lived, with painted ceiling decoration.
• The keep: long vaulted corridors lined with monks' cells, some still with mud-brick sleeping benches and graffiti left by pilgrims.
• Working quarters: the bakery, ovens, a wine press, water cisterns and the refectory show how a self-sufficient community survived in the desert.

Climb to the upper terraces for views over the dunes to the river.

Should you ride a camel or walk?

Either works: camels wait at the landing below the Aga Khan Mausoleum, and the ride takes about 20–30 minutes; on foot the sandy path takes about the same and is a steady uphill walk. The camel ride is short and gentle, which makes it a good first camel experience for children; agree the price, including the return, before you get on, or let your guide arrange it. Our guide to camel riding in Egypt covers welfare and what to expect.

Fit walkers can also cross the desert from Qubbet el-Hawa, about 45 minutes over open sand with no shade. Only do this in the cooler months, with plenty of water and preferably with a guide.

How long does a visit take and when should you go?

Allow two to three hours from the Corniche and back, with about an hour inside; go early in the morning or in the late afternoon. The monastery has little shade, and the sand reflects heat, so from May to September midday visits are best avoided altogether. A winter morning, when the light is soft on the walls and the desert is quiet, is ideal. Check closing time before setting out, as you will want to be back at the boat before dusk.

How do you get there?

Take a felucca or motorboat from the Corniche to the west-bank landing near the Aga Khan Mausoleum, about 10–15 minutes, then ride or walk up the valley to the monastery. Many visitors combine it with a felucca sail, landing on the west bank, riding up to the monastery and returning to the boat for sunset. At the time of writing the Aga Khan Mausoleum on the hill above the landing is closed to visitors, but it is a striking sight on the way.

Buy tickets at the gate and check current prices on egymonuments.gov.eg. For more on the Coptic heritage of Egypt, our tour of Christian Egypt and the Holy Family route covers the great monasteries further north.

Who should go?

It suits travellers with a spare half-day in Aswan who like ruins, desert landscapes or early Christian history, and families who want a camel ride with a destination. It is rarely on cruise programmes, so you are likely to share it with few other visitors. If you are choosing between it and Kitchener's Island on a felucca afternoon, St Simeon is the more memorable stop.

Pack water, a hat and closed shoes, as sand gets into sandals quickly. Women do not need to cover their hair here, but shoulders and knees should be covered out of respect for a site that is still meaningful to Coptic Christians.