Elephantine Island

Why is Elephantine Island important?

For most of ancient Egyptian history Elephantine was the frontier: the fortified town of Abu guarded the First Cataract, controlled trade with Nubia and was believed to sit above the source of the Nile flood. Its name, in both Egyptian and Greek, refers to elephants, probably because ivory from further south was traded here, and possibly because the smooth grey boulders around the island look like bathing elephants.

The island's governors were buried across the river at Qubbet el-Hawa, and the ram-headed god Khnum, who was thought to release the flood from caverns beneath the cataract, was worshipped here with the goddesses Satet and Anuket. In the 5th century BC, under Persian rule, a garrison of Jewish soldiers lived on the island; their Aramaic letters and contracts, the Elephantine Papyri, are among the most important documents of ancient Jewish history and refer to the town as Yeb.

What can you see in the ruins of ancient Abu?

The archaeological zone covers the southern end of the island, with the foundations of the Temple of Khnum, the partly rebuilt Temple of Satet, the Nilometer and layers of houses from more than 3,000 years of occupation. German and Swiss archaeological missions have excavated here since 1969, and signs explain the site better than at many Egyptian ruins.

• The Temple of Khnum: mostly platforms and fallen blocks today, with a granite gateway of Alexander IV and the great terrace overlooking the river. Its scale is easiest to grasp from the riverside.
• The Temple of Satet: the goddess of the cataract had a shrine here from the earliest dynasties; the small temple of Hatshepsut and Thutmose III has been partly reconstructed from its original blocks.
• The shrine of Heqaib: a sanctuary to a deified 6th-dynasty governor, whose tomb you can visit at Qubbet el-Hawa.
• A small step pyramid: one of a series of minor early pyramids built in the provinces at the end of the 3rd dynasty.

What is the Elephantine Nilometer?

It is a stone stairway running down into the Nile with water-level scales cut into its walls, used to measure the height of the annual flood and predict the harvest, and with it the year's taxes. The Greek geographer Strabo described a Nilometer here around 25 BC. The surviving staircase, beside the Temple of Satet, has scales marked in different periods; it was restored in the 1870s and fitted with marble plaques in Arabic and French.

Since the High Dam ended the flood, the Nilometer is a monument rather than a working gauge. A few cubits either way could mean plenty or famine.

Can you visit the Nubian villages on Elephantine?

Yes: the middle of the island is occupied by two Nubian villages, Siou and Koti, with painted houses, palm groves and small gardens linked by sandy lanes. Walking through them is free and relaxed compared with the busier West Bank villages, and you are likely to be invited for tea. Some families run guesthouses and small cafes, and there is a private ethnographic display about Nubian life in one of the villages; ask locally whether it is open.

Dress modestly, ask before photographing people and treat it as someone's neighbourhood rather than an attraction. Our Nubian culture guide gives useful background before you go.

What about the Aswan Museum?

The small Aswan Museum stands beside the ruins in the former villa of Sir William Willcocks, the engineer who designed the Old Aswan Dam, with an annexe displaying finds from the excavations. Exhibits include objects from the temples, a mummified ram sacred to Khnum and material from the town's long history. Its opening has been irregular in recent years, so check locally before you count on it. The Nubian Museum on the mainland is the more important collection.

How do you get to Elephantine and how long should you allow?

Take the public ferry from the Corniche, roughly opposite the town centre, or hire a motorboat; the crossing takes under 10 minutes. Ferries run frequently during the day for a few Egyptian pounds and land near the villages; a private boat can drop you closer to the ruins at the southern tip. The Mövenpick resort at the island's northern end runs its own boat for guests.

Allow two to three hours: an hour or so for the ruins and Nilometer, and the rest for a walk through the villages. Mornings and late afternoons are best; there is little shade in the archaeological zone. The island is also the backdrop for every felucca ride in Aswan, and many sails circle it with a stop at Kitchener's Island on its western side. For ticket prices, check egymonuments.gov.eg.