City of the Dead

What is the City of the Dead?

It is the historic necropolis of Cairo, a band of cemeteries several kilometres long below the Muqattam Hills, known in Arabic as al-Qarafa. Cairenes have buried their dead here since the early Islamic centuries. Families built walled enclosures, called hosh, around their tombs, with rooms where relatives stayed during visits and feast days, and from the 14th century Mamluk sultans and emirs added great domed complexes with mosques, Sufi lodges and schools.

The area is usually divided into the Northern Cemetery, with the finest Mamluk monuments, and the Southern Cemetery, around the mausoleum of Imam al-Shafi'i. Since 2020 parts of the cemeteries have been cleared for new roads and bridges, a decision that has drawn criticism from heritage groups, so what survives and what is accessible can change; ask your guide for the current situation. For the wider history, see our history of Islamic Cairo.

Do people really live in the City of the Dead?

Yes; tens of thousands of people are thought to live among the tombs, although estimates vary widely. Some families have been caretakers of tomb enclosures for generations, while others moved in as Cairo's housing shortage grew in the 20th century. The neighbourhood has schools, workshops, cafes and corner shops, and many homes are built into or beside tomb courtyards.

That is the most important thing to understand before you go: this is a living community, not an open-air museum. Residents are generally welcoming, but no one wants to be treated as a sight. Do not photograph people or homes without asking, keep voices low near funerals, and avoid the language of poverty tourism.

Which monuments should you see?

Prioritise the complex of Sultan Qaitbay, then the khanqah of Faraj ibn Barquq and the complex of Barsbay nearby in the Northern Cemetery.

• Funerary complex of Qaitbay (1472–1474): often called the most perfect Mamluk building. The carved stone dome, covered in an interlaced star pattern over an arabesque of foliage, is a masterpiece, and the façade and minaret are equally fine. Inside, look at the coloured marble floors, the painted ceilings and the stained-glass windows. The mosque has appeared on Egyptian banknotes.
• Khanqah of Faraj ibn Barquq (1400–1411): a large Sufi lodge with two matching stone domes and twin minarets, built by Sultan Faraj for his father Barquq. Its quiet courtyard and symmetrical plan are unusual in Cairo.
• Complex of Barsbay (1432): a few minutes' walk away, with a carved dome and a richly decorated marble prayer hall.

In the Southern Cemetery, the mausoleum of Imam al-Shafi'i, founder of one of the four Sunni schools of law, has a great wooden dome and has been restored in recent years; check whether it is open to visitors before you go.

How should you visit respectfully and safely?

Go in daylight with a local guide or driver who knows the area, dress modestly, and tip the caretakers who unlock monuments. The lanes are a maze, signposting is minimal and many buildings are opened by caretakers with keys, so a guide saves a great deal of time and smooths every introduction.

• Cover shoulders and knees, carry a scarf, and take off your shoes inside mosques and mausoleums.
• Ask before photographing anyone or anyone's home; children will often ask you to photograph them, which is fine with a parent's consent.
• If you meet a funeral, stop and step aside until it has passed.
• Carry small notes for caretakers, who may expect a modest tip for opening a door or a minaret.

The area is not dangerous by day for visitors with a guide, but check the latest advice on Smartraveller and our Is Egypt safe? guide.

How do you get there, and how long should you allow?

It is a 10–15 minute drive from Al-Azhar or the Citadel along Salah Salem Road, and you should allow one and a half to two hours for Qaitbay and one or two other monuments. Mornings are best, as caretakers are around and the monuments are reliably open. Fridays are busy with family visits to graves and are best avoided. Wear closed shoes: the lanes are unpaved and dusty, and some monuments are reached through tomb courtyards with uneven steps.

The Northern Cemetery sits just east of Al-Azhar Park, whose hilltop looks out over its domes, so a good half day is Qaitbay in the late morning, lunch in the park and the sunset view over the cemetery and the old city. Our visiting mosques in Egypt guide covers dress and etiquette.