Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan

Why is Sultan Hassan considered a Mamluk masterpiece?

Because of its sheer scale and the clarity of its plan: a cruciform courtyard with four towering vaulted iwans, built as a mosque, a college for all four Sunni schools of law and a royal mausoleum in one building. Sultan al-Nasir Hasan, a son of the great builder al-Nasir Muhammad, began it in 1356, soon after the Black Death had killed a large share of Cairo's people and left many estates without heirs to fund it.

The sultan never saw it finished. He was murdered by his own emirs in 1361 and his body was never recovered, so the domed mausoleum built for him does not hold him. Work carried on until 1363. A minaret collapsed during construction and killed hundreds of people, and the building's position below the Citadel later made it a fortress for rebels, who fired on the sultans from its roof. For the wider Mamluk story, see our history of Islamic Cairo.

What should you look for inside Sultan Hassan?

The portal, the bent entrance passage, the courtyard and the qibla iwan with the mausoleum behind it.

• The portal: about 38 metres high, crowned by a cascade of stone muqarnas (stalactite vaulting). Look closely at the unfinished carving on either side, a sign of how abruptly work stopped.
• The entrance passage: turns twice in near darkness before releasing you into the bright courtyard, a deliberate piece of theatre.
• The courtyard and four iwans: the four great vaulted halls were each assigned to one of the four Sunni schools of law (Hanafi, Shafi'i, Maliki and Hanbali), with the students' rooms tucked into the corners behind them. The central domed fountain was added later.
• The qibla iwan: the largest, with a marble-panelled mihrab, a stone minbar and a band of monumental Kufic inscription running round the walls. Look up to see the long chains that once held enamelled glass lamps; several survivors are now in the Museum of Islamic Art.
• The mausoleum: through a door beside the mihrab, a domed chamber with its windows overlooking the Citadel road. Sultan Hassan is not buried here; the cenotaph marks an empty tomb.

What is the Al-Rifa'i Mosque, and who is buried there?

Al-Rifa'i is a royal mosque and mausoleum of 1869–1912, built in Mamluk revival style to match Sultan Hassan, and it holds the tombs of Egypt's modern royal family and the last Shah of Iran. It was commissioned by Khushyar Hanim, mother of Khedive Ismail, and finished more than 40 years later. The scale and stonework are so convincing that many visitors assume it is medieval.

Inside, the polished marble, gilded ceilings and inlaid wood are far richer than in Sultan Hassan. The tomb chambers hold Khushyar Hanim, Khedive Ismail, King Fuad I and King Farouk, the last reigning king of Egypt. In a separate room lies Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, who died in exile in Cairo in 1980; his green marble tomb is the one most visitors ask to see. It takes its name from the Rifa'i Sufi order, whose older shrine on the site it replaced and whose shaykhs are also buried here.

How long do you need, and when is the best time?

Allow 45 minutes to an hour for both mosques, ideally mid-morning, when the sun reaches into the courtyard of Sultan Hassan. By mid-afternoon the courtyard is in shade and the interiors are darker, though the stonework still looks superb. Both buildings close during prayers and at Friday midday prayer. Photographers should stand at the far end of the courtyard, facing the qibla iwan, to get the full height of the vault in one frame; a wide-angle lens helps.

At the time of writing a single ticket has covered both mosques; check current details on egymonuments.gov.eg. Shoes come off at the door (cloth overshoes or an attendant are usually available), and normal mosque dress applies: covered shoulders and knees, and a scarf for women.

How do you combine Sultan Hassan with other sights?

Visit it straight after the Citadel, which is a 10-minute walk up the hill, or pair it with the Mosque of Ibn Tulun about a kilometre to the west. A taxi from downtown or Zamalek takes 15–30 minutes. The square between the two mosques is a busy traffic junction, so cross carefully or have your driver drop you at the entrance.

A strong half-day route is the Citadel of Saladin, then Sultan Hassan and Al-Rifa'i, then the Mosque of Ibn Tulun and the Gayer-Anderson Museum beside it. Our Cairo in three days itinerary shows how to fit it around Giza and Saqqara.