Quick answer
The classic Egyptian desert camp is a night among the chalk formations of the White Desert, reached by 4WD via Bahariya Oasis about six hours from Cairo, sleeping on mattresses under the stars beside a campfire. Siwa's Great Sand Sea and the Bedouin camps of Sinai are the other main options. Go between October and April, pack for near-freezing nights, and check current travel advice for desert regions.
Where can you camp in Egypt's deserts?
The three main areas are the Western Desert between Bahariya and Farafra (White Desert, Black Desert and Crystal Mountain), the dunes of the Great Sand Sea around Siwa, and the mountains and coast of South Sinai.
- White Desert: wind-sculpted white chalk outcrops in shapes nicknamed the Mushroom and the Chicken, rising from a plain scattered with iron pyrite. The camp is usually set among them, with sunset and sunrise light on the rock. See our White Desert National Park guide.
- Siwa and the Great Sand Sea: golden dunes south and west of Siwa Oasis, with sandboarding, a swim in the warm spring at Bir Wahed and a camp in the dunes. See the Great Sand Sea.
- Sinai: Bedouin camps in the high mountains around St Catherine, used by hikers and Mount Sinai climbers, and simple beach camps of palm-frond huts along the Gulf of Aqaba coast.
- Fayoum: camping is permitted in designated areas of Wadi el-Hitan, the whale-fossil valley, making it the closest desert night to Cairo.
What is a night in the White Desert like?
You leave Cairo early, drive about 370 km to Bawiti in Bahariya Oasis, switch to a 4WD, cross the Black Desert and Crystal Mountain, and reach the chalk formations in time for sunset. The crew sets up camp in a sheltered spot: a semicircle of rugs and windbreaks against the vehicle, thin mattresses and heavy blankets, sometimes small tents.
Dinner is cooked over the fire, typically grilled chicken, rice, vegetable stew and bread, followed by sweet Bedouin tea. After dark the silence is total and the stars astonishing. Small desert foxes often trot into camp looking for scraps; enjoy them from a distance and don't feed them. There are no toilets: you take a shovel and walk behind a rock.
At sunrise the formations glow pink, then white. Most trips return to Cairo the next afternoon, a long day of driving. Our White Desert overnight trip guide gives a timed plan, and our longer Egypt journeys can include a night or two in the Western Desert.
How do Egypt's desert camps compare with Wadi Rum?
Egypt has far fewer permanent "Wadi Rum-style" tented camps than Jordan: most desert nights are mobile camps set up for you that evening, which is wilder and simpler.
| Egypt (White Desert, Siwa) | Jordan (Wadi Rum) | |
|---|---|---|
| Camp type | Mostly mobile camps under the open sky | Hundreds of permanent tented and dome camps |
| Bathrooms | Usually none in the White Desert | Shared or en-suite in most camps |
| Beds | Mattresses and blankets on the ground | Proper beds in tents |
| Crowds | Few other groups in sight | Busy in peak season |
| Comfort options | Eco-lodges in Siwa and Bahariya; occasional glamping set-ups | Wide range up to luxury domes |
If you want comfort, sleep in an eco-lodge in Siwa or Bahariya and spend a sunset and evening in the dunes rather than the whole night. If you are combining the two countries, Wadi Rum makes a good contrast with a wilder night in Egypt.
What are Sinai's Bedouin camps like?
Sinai's camps are run by Bedouin families and fall into two types: mountain camps around St Catherine used by hikers and Mount Sinai climbers, and simple beach camps of palm-frond and bamboo huts along the Gulf of Aqaba coast. Both are more permanent than a White Desert night, with fixed shelters, shared bathrooms and a kitchen.
In the high mountains, the local Jebeliya tribe guide walkers between walled gardens, springs and peaks, and multi-day hikes stay in simple camps or sleep out beside a fire. Hiking in this area is done with a Bedouin guide, which spreads income through the community. Nights in winter are bitterly cold at altitude; St Catherine village sits at around 1,600 metres, and frost and even snow on the peaks are possible in January.
On the coast, beach camps between Nuweiba and Taba offer a hut, a mattress, a mosquito net and fresh fish for dinner, with a reef a few steps from the door. They are cheap, sociable and very basic. Travel advice for parts of Sinai changes, so check the current Smartraveller advice for the specific area before you plan a Sinai camp.
When is the best time to camp in the desert?
October to April is the camping season; November, March and early April have the best balance of warm days and bearable nights. In December and January the days are a pleasant 18–22°C, but nights can drop close to freezing in the open desert. From May to September daytime temperatures in the Western Desert often exceed 40°C, which makes long drives and walking unpleasant and unsafe.
Plan around the moon if you can. A night near the new moon gives the best stargazing; a full moon lights the chalk formations an eerie white, which some travellers prefer. Spring can bring the khamsin, a hot, dusty wind that can blow for days and turn camp into a sandstorm. For the stars themselves, see stargazing in Egypt.
Is desert camping in Egypt safe?
Organised camping trips in the White Desert and around Siwa run regularly, but desert travel requires permits, police checkpoints and an experienced local operator, and travel advice for some desert regions is stricter than for the Nile Valley. At the time of writing, Australia's Smartraveller advice treats parts of the Western Desert and Sinai differently from the rest of Egypt, and areas near the Libyan border carry a higher warning. Read the current advice at smartraveller.gov.au before you book, and our guide is Egypt safe?
Practical risks are more ordinary: cold at night, dehydration by day, getting a vehicle stuck in sand and rough tracks. Use an operator with well-maintained 4WDs, two vehicles for remote routes, satellite or radio communication and spare water. Make sure your travel insurance covers remote areas, as an evacuation from the desert is costly.
Mobile phone coverage fades quickly once you leave Bahariya, so tell someone at home your dates and don't plan any calls. Your crew will know the nearest checkpoint and clinic, and a good operator briefs you on both before you set off.
What should you pack for a desert camp?
Pack for both heat and cold: sun protection for the day, and a warm sleeping bag or thermal layers for the night. Operators supply mattresses, blankets and food, but blankets are not always enough in winter.
- A sleeping bag rated to around 0°C between December and February, or a liner plus thermal base layers.
- A warm jacket, beanie and socks for the evening and pre-dawn.
- A head torch with spare batteries.
- Toilet paper, a small bag to carry it out, hand sanitiser and wet wipes.
- Sunscreen, sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat and a scarf against blowing sand.
- A power bank; there is no electricity at camp.
- Closed shoes for walking among the formations, and sandals for camp.
- Any medicines, plus rehydration salts.
Leave no trace: carry out all rubbish, keep off the fragile chalk formations, and don't take rocks or fossils. Our full Egypt packing list covers the rest of the trip.
Frequently asked questions
How far is the White Desert from Cairo?
About 4–5 hours by road to Bahariya Oasis, then around 1.5–2 hours by 4WD to the main chalk formations, depending on stops at the Black Desert and Crystal Mountain.
Are there toilets at desert camps in Egypt?
Not in the White Desert, where camps are mobile. Siwa and Sinai camps and eco-lodges usually have bathroom facilities.
How cold does the desert get at night?
In December and January the open desert can approach 0°C at night. Even in March and November, nights are cool enough for a warm sleeping bag.
Can children go desert camping in Egypt?
Yes, if they are comfortable with long drives and basic facilities. Older children often rate it as a highlight. Pack extra warm layers.
Do I need a permit to camp in the White Desert?
Yes, desert permits and police registration are required. A licensed operator arranges them as part of the trip.
