This is Egypt without the Nile. In nine days you follow the Mediterranean coast west from Alexandria, turn south across the desert to Siwa, a palm-filled Amazigh oasis close to the Libyan border, and then cross some 400 km of open desert by 4WD to Bahariya and the chalk formations of the White Desert, before returning to Cairo.
The two halves are very different. Siwa is a place to stay: mud-brick ruins, springs to swim in, salt pools you float in like a cork, and the temple where Alexander the Great consulted the oracle of Amun. The White Desert is a place to camp: wind-carved pinnacles that glow pink at sunset, a fire-cooked dinner and one of the darkest night skies in Egypt.
The Siwa to Bahariya track needs permits that are not always granted, so we apply well in advance and keep a fallback route via the coast and Cairo. Travel in the Western Desert is always with a licensed operator, experienced desert drivers and satellite communications. It is a trip for travellers who have seen the Pyramids, or who will add them on either side.
Journey highlights
- Alexandria's Qaitbay Citadel and Bibliotheca, and the El Alamein War Cemetery
- Sunset from the mud-brick ruins of Shali Fortress
- The Temple of the Oracle of Amun, where Alexander the Great came in 331 BC
- A swim in Cleopatra's Spring and a float in Siwa's turquoise salt pools
- The painted Tomb of Si-Amun at Gebel al-Mawta, the Mountain of the Dead
- 4WD into the Great Sand Sea with sandboarding and the Bir Wahed hot spring
- A permitted desert crossing to Bahariya, then the Black Desert and Crystal Mountain
- A night camping among the chalk formations of the White Desert
Day-by-day itinerary
- Day1
Arrive in Cairo
You are met inside the terminal at Cairo International Airport and driven to your hotel. Rest, and meet your guide in the evening for a briefing on the desert days ahead.
- Day2
Drive to Alexandria
Drive about 3 hours north to Alexandria. Visit the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa, the 15th-century Citadel of Qaitbay on the site of the ancient Pharos lighthouse, and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, then eat fish by the Eastern Harbour.
- Day3
El Alamein and Marsa Matruh
Follow the coast west for about 2 hours to El Alamein. Visit the Commonwealth War Cemetery, where many soldiers of the Australian 9th Division who fought here in 1942 are buried, and the war museum. Continue about 2–2.5 hours to Marsa Matruh for the night by the Mediterranean.
- Day4
Across the desert to Siwa
Drive about 4 hours south across the desert to Siwa Oasis, arriving around midday. In the afternoon, float in one of the turquoise salt pools at the edge of the lakes, rinse off, then climb the crumbling kershef lanes of Shali Fortress for sunset over the palms.
- Day5
Siwa's antiquities and the Great Sand Sea
Start at Gebel al-Mawta, the Mountain of the Dead, for the painted Tomb of Si-Amun while the light is soft. Visit the Temple of the Oracle of Amun on the rock of Aghurmi, then swim in Cleopatra's Spring nearby. At about 2pm, head into the dunes of the Great Sand Sea by 4WD for dune driving, sandboarding and sunset at the Bir Wahed hot spring.
- Day6
Desert crossing to Bahariya
Make a full-day 4WD crossing east from Siwa to Bahariya Oasis, roughly 400 km of desert track with no towns, stopping for a picnic lunch among the dunes. The route needs permits, which we apply for in advance. Overnight in a locally run lodge in Bawiti.
- Day7
Black Desert, Crystal Mountain and White Desert camp
Drive south from Bawiti into the Black Desert and climb English Mountain, about 15–20 minutes on loose stones, for the view over the dark-capped hills. Stop at Crystal Mountain and the Agabat valley, then enter the White Desert National Park in time for sunset among the Mushroom, the Chicken and the other chalk pinnacles. Your crew sets up camp and cooks dinner over the fire.
- Day8
Sunrise and the drive to Cairo
Watch the sunrise colour the chalk formations, have breakfast at camp and drive back to Cairo, about 6–7 hours with stops. Check in to your hotel for a hot shower and a final dinner.
- Day9
Depart Cairo
A private transfer takes you to Cairo International Airport for your flight home, or continue to Giza or the Nile Valley.
Where you’ll stay
| Location | Accommodation |
|---|---|
| Cairo, 1 night | Kempinski Nile Hotel Garden City or similar |
| Alexandria, 1 night | Steigenberger Cecil Hotel or similar |
| Marsa Matruh, 1 night | Best available beachfront hotel |
| Siwa Oasis, 2 nights | Siwa Shali Resort or similar (Adrère Amellal eco-lodge on request) |
| Bahariya, 1 night | Locally run desert lodge in Bawiti |
| White Desert, 1 night | Private camp with mattresses, blankets and windbreaks |
| Cairo, 1 night | Marriott Mena House or similar |
What’s included
- 7 nights in hotels and lodges with daily breakfast, and dinner in Siwa and Bahariya
- 1 night of private camping in the White Desert with dinner and breakfast
- Private guide throughout, plus 4WD vehicles with experienced desert drivers from Siwa to the White Desert
- Private air-conditioned vehicle and driver from Cairo to Siwa and from the White Desert to Cairo
- Desert permits for the Siwa–Bahariya crossing and the protected areas
- Great Sand Sea 4WD safari with sandboards
- Standard entry fees to all sites in the itinerary
- Airport meet-and-assist service and 24/7 local support
Not included
- International flights from Australia or New Zealand (we can quote and book these)
- Egypt visa fee
- Travel insurance (compulsory; confirm it covers the Western Desert)
- Sleeping bag liner and personal warm gear
- Lunches, drinks and meals not listed
- Tips for guides, drivers, desert crew and hotel staff
Destinations on this journey
Cairo & Giza · Alexandria · Siwa Oasis · White Desert
White Desert and Siwa in 9 Days: Mediterranean Coast, Oasis and a Night Under the Stars: FAQs
What if the Siwa to Bahariya permit is not granted?
Permits for the track are not always granted and can change at short notice. If it is refused, we drive back via the coast towards Cairo and reach Bahariya by the main road instead, which adds a long road day; we confirm the plan with you before you travel. Our Siwa vs White Desert guide explains the route.
Is the Western Desert safe to visit?
Siwa, Bahariya and the White Desert are visited by tourists with licensed operators, and some routes need permits and pass police checkpoints. Government advice for the Western Desert can differ from the Nile Valley, so check Smartraveller or SafeTravel before booking, confirm your insurance covers these areas, and read Is Egypt safe?
What is the White Desert camp like?
Comfortable but simple: thick mattresses, blankets, a windbreak, a campfire dinner and basic toilet arrangements, with no showers or electricity. Bring a warm layer, a beanie and a head torch. Our desert camping guide covers what to pack.
How should we dress in Siwa?
Siwa is a conservative Amazigh community, so everyone should wear long sleeves and long trousers or skirts in town, and ask before photographing people, especially women. At Cleopatra's Spring men usually swim in shorts and women in a T-shirt and leggings.
How long are the drives?
The longest are the Siwa to Bahariya crossing, a full day by 4WD, and the White Desert back to Cairo, about 6–7 hours. The other legs are 2–4 hours. Our Siwa Oasis guide has the distances.
Can we add the Pyramids?
Yes. Add one or two nights in Giza at either end for the Pyramids and the Grand Egyptian Museum, as in our Cairo and Pyramids stopover.
