Citadel of Qaitbay

What is the Citadel of Qaitbay?

It is a fortress built by the Mamluk sultan al-Ashraf Qaitbay between about 1477 and 1480 to guard Alexandria against attack from the sea, at a time when the growing Ottoman navy was the main threat. Qaitbay, who also left some of the finest buildings in Cairo's City of the Dead, chose the tip of the old Pharos peninsula because it commands the entrance to the Eastern Harbour.

The fort kept its military role for four centuries. Muhammad Ali strengthened it in the early 19th century, and it was badly damaged when the British fleet bombarded Alexandria in 1882. Egyptian conservators rebuilt much of it in the 20th century, which is why the pale limestone looks so crisp today. What you see is a square three-storey keep with rounded corner towers, set inside a ring of curtain walls and smaller towers that run right to the water's edge.

What happened to the Lighthouse of Pharos?

The lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world, was toppled by a series of earthquakes and had collapsed into ruin by the 14th century; Qaitbay's builders reused some of its fallen stone. It was completed around 280 BC under the early Ptolemies and is credited to the architect Sostratus of Cnidus. Ancient and medieval descriptions suggest a three-tiered tower, square at the base, then octagonal, then cylindrical, perhaps more than 100 metres high, though every height estimate is a reconstruction.

Look for large red granite blocks built into the lower walls of the keep: these are widely thought to come from the lighthouse or nearby Ptolemaic buildings. In the 1990s a French-led underwater survey mapped thousands of blocks, column drums and statue fragments on the seabed just off the fort. Some of the colossal statues raised from the harbour are now displayed at Kom el-Dikka and in the Alexandria National Museum. For the dynasty that built the lighthouse, see our guide to Ptolemaic Egypt.

What can you see inside the fort?

The highlights are the keep itself, the small mosque on its ground floor, the vaulted passages inside the outer walls and the views from the ramparts.

• The keep: climb through dim stone halls and stairways to the upper level. Narrow windows frame the sea on three sides.
• The mosque: a simple prayer hall with a mihrab facing Mecca, built into the keep, as was common in Mamluk forts.
• The curtain walls: walk the inner passages lined with arrow slits and gun ports, then the wall-walk on top for views back along the Corniche.
• The seaward side: waves break straight onto the rocks below the northern walls, and on a windy winter day spray reaches the ramparts.

Some rooms and staircases are closed for restoration from time to time, and the displays inside change, so treat the fort as an atmospheric walk rather than a museum.

When is the best time to visit, and how long do you need?

Plan on 45 minutes to an hour, and come in the late afternoon if you can. The western sun lights the limestone a warm gold, the fishing boats return to the harbour and the Corniche fills with families out for the evening. Mornings on weekdays are quietest. Fridays, public holidays and the summer months from June to September bring big crowds of Egyptian holiday-makers, and the courtyard can be very busy.

From December to February a cold wind blows off the Mediterranean and showers are possible, so bring a layer. The keep has steep, uneven stairs with little lighting, which can be awkward for anyone with limited mobility; the outer courtyard and lower walls are easier.

How do you get to Qaitbay, and what is nearby?

The fort stands at the western end of the Eastern Harbour Corniche, about 3 km or 10–20 minutes by car from Raml Station and downtown, depending on traffic. On a private tour your driver drops you at the gate. Walking the Corniche from the centre takes about 40 minutes and is a fine way to arrive, with the harbour on one side and the old Anfushi quarter on the other.

Combine the visit with lunch at one of the seafood restaurants around the harbour, where you choose fish by weight (see seafood in Egypt), and the white Mosque of Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi, a 20th-century rebuilding of the shrine of a 13th-century Andalusian Sufi saint, about ten minutes' walk inland. Buy tickets at the gate and check the current fee on egymonuments.gov.eg; opening hours change seasonally, so check before you go.

Tips for visiting

Wear shoes with grip, carry small notes and expect to be asked for photos. The stone floors are polished smooth by visitors and can be slippery when damp. Egyptian families and school groups often ask foreign visitors to pose for pictures; a smile and a polite "la, shukran" (no, thank you) is fine if you would rather not. Hawkers sell snacks and souvenirs on the approach, and horse-drawn carriages wait along the Corniche. If you are on our Ultimate Egypt 21-day tour, Qaitbay is part of your Alexandria day.