St Mark's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral

What is St Mark's Cathedral in Alexandria?

It is the cathedral church of the Coptic Orthodox Patriarchate of Alexandria, built on the place Coptic tradition identifies with the first church in Egypt, founded by St Mark. The Coptic Pope still carries the title Pope of Alexandria and Patriarch of the See of St Mark, even though the patriarchs have lived mainly in Cairo since the Middle Ages and the much larger St Mark's Cathedral in Abbassia, Cairo, is the church's administrative centre today.

This page is about visiting the Alexandria cathedral itself. For the wider story of Christian Egypt, the Holy Family trail and the desert monasteries, see our guide to Christian sites in Egypt. Do not confuse it with the Anglican St Mark's Church on Mansheya square or the Catholic Cathedral of St Catherine nearby, both also in central Alexandria.

What is the story of St Mark in Alexandria?

According to Coptic tradition, St Mark, author of the second Gospel, came to Alexandria around AD 42–49, made his first convert in a cobbler named Anianus, and was martyred by being dragged through the streets around AD 68. Anianus became his successor, and the Coptic Church counts its popes in an unbroken line from Mark; Pope Tawadros II, enthroned in 2012, is numbered the 118th.

St Mark's relics have a long history. In 828 Venetian merchants smuggled his body out of Alexandria to Venice, where St Mark's Basilica was built for it. Coptic tradition holds that his head remained in Alexandria, and it is venerated at this cathedral. In 1968 part of the relics was returned from Venice to the Coptic Church and placed in the new cathedral in Cairo. These are matters of church tradition rather than archaeology, and the building has been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries.

What will you see inside?

A bright, high nave with rows of wooden pews, a carved and inlaid iconostasis (the screen in front of the sanctuary), and many icons, including images of St Mark and his successors. Look for:

• The shrine of St Mark: where the relic associated with the saint is venerated. Worshippers pause here to pray and light candles; visitors should do so quietly or step back.
• The icons: painted in the flat, gold-ground Coptic style, with the Holy Family's flight into Egypt a favourite subject.
• Portraits of the patriarchs: a sense of the long succession from St Mark to the present day.

The current building is largely from the 20th century, so come for the living faith and the sense of continuity rather than ancient architecture. On an ordinary weekday you may find families lighting candles, a priest hearing confessions or children arriving for Sunday school classes, and the atmosphere is welcoming rather than solemn. For the oldest surviving Christian buildings, visit Coptic Cairo and the Wadi El Natrun monasteries on the road between Cairo and Alexandria.

Can visitors attend a service?

Yes; respectful visitors are welcome at the Divine Liturgy, which is sung in Arabic and Coptic and usually lasts two to three hours. The main services are on Sunday and Friday mornings, with others during the week; times vary, so ask the church office or your guide. Arrive early, sit quietly, and feel free to leave discreetly before the end. Communion is for members of the Orthodox churches, and in many Coptic churches men and women sit on opposite sides. Fasting seasons and major feasts, such as Coptic Christmas on 7 January and Coptic Easter, bring crowds and extra security. See Coptic Christmas in Egypt and Easter in Egypt.

Practical tips: security, dress and timing

Expect an airport-style security check, dress modestly, and visit outside service times if you want to look around. Security has been tight since a suicide bombing outside the cathedral on Palm Sunday in April 2017 killed worshippers and police officers; guards may check passports and bags. Shoulders and knees should be covered, and women may wish to carry a scarf. Photography of the interior is usually fine outside services, but always ask, and never photograph worshippers at prayer without permission. Entry is free; a donation is appreciated.

The cathedral is in the old centre, a short walk from Raml Station and 10 minutes by car from most Corniche hotels, so it combines easily with Kom el-Dikka. It is a key stop on our Christian Egypt 10-day tour.