Quick answer
El Alamein, on the Mediterranean coast about 110 km west of Alexandria, was the scene of the 1942 battles that turned the war in North Africa, in which the 9th Australian Division and the 2nd New Zealand Division played major parts. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery there holds more than 7,000 burials, and with the nearby military museum and German and Italian memorials it makes a moving half-day trip from Alexandria.
What happened at El Alamein?
In 1942 the British Eighth Army, with Australian, New Zealand, South African, Indian, Greek, Free French and other Allied troops, stopped the German and Italian advance on Alexandria and the Suez Canal at El Alamein and then broke through it, the first decisive Allied land victory of the war against Germany. The position was chosen because the Qattara Depression, impassable to tanks, lay about 60 km to the south, narrowing the front.
The First Battle of El Alamein in July 1942, under General Auchinleck, halted Rommel's Panzer Army Africa. After the Battle of Alam Halfa in late August and early September, General Montgomery launched the Second Battle on the night of 23 October 1942 with a massive artillery barrage. After almost two weeks of costly fighting the Axis line broke in early November, and the retreat west began. Churchill later wrote that before Alamein the Allies never had a victory, and after it never had a defeat.
What did Australians and New Zealanders do at El Alamein?
The 9th Australian Division, under Lieutenant General Leslie Morshead, fought in the coastal northern sector in both battles, and the 2nd New Zealand Division, under Lieutenant General Bernard Freyberg, fought in the centre of the line; both suffered very heavy casualties.
- 9th Australian Division: in July 1942 it captured and held Tel el Eisa, near the coast. In the Second Battle it drove north towards the sea in days of fierce fighting around Trig 29 and the area known as the Saucer, drawing in German reserves and helping open the way for the final breakthrough. Two men of the 2/48th Battalion, Private Arthur Gurney (July) and Sergeant William Kibby (October), were awarded the Victoria Cross, both posthumously.
- 2nd New Zealand Division: in July 1942 it fought at Ruweisat Ridge and El Mreir, where Captain Charles Upham earned a Bar to his Victoria Cross and Sergeant Keith Elliott a VC. In the Second Battle it attacked Miteiriya Ridge on the opening night and led Operation Supercharge, the attack of 2 November that broke the Axis line.
The Australian War Memorial and Auckland Museum's Online Cenotaph publish detailed unit histories and casualty records if you are researching a relative.
What will you see at the Commonwealth War Cemetery?
Rows of pale headstones in the desert, inside a walled garden entered through the cloisters of the Alamein Memorial, kept immaculately by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. According to the Commission, the cemetery holds more than 7,000 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War, several hundred of them unidentified, from the fighting in the Western Desert. Australians and New Zealanders lie alongside British, Indian, South African and other Commonwealth soldiers, many grouped by the units that brought them in.
The memorial walls list the names of many thousands of soldiers and airmen of the Commonwealth who died in the Western Desert and elsewhere in the region and have no known grave; the Commission puts the total at over 11,000, a figure worth checking on its site if you are looking for a name. A Cross of Sacrifice stands at the centre. To find a particular grave or panel, search the Commission's Find War Dead database before you travel and note the plot, row and grave reference; there are also registers kept at the site.
What else is there to see at El Alamein?
The El Alamein Military Museum, a few kilometres from the cemetery, and the German and Italian memorials further west along the coast road.
- El Alamein Military Museum: run by the Egyptian armed forces, with tanks, guns and vehicles in the grounds and halls for Egypt, the Commonwealth, Germany and Italy, displaying uniforms, maps and personal items. Allow 45 minutes to an hour; tickets are bought on site and opening hours change, so check before you go.
- The German memorial: a sombre fortress-like octagon on a rise overlooking the sea, holding the remains of German soldiers.
- The Italian memorial: a tall white tower and chapel with a small museum, honouring Italian soldiers, a little further west.
Seeing all three is a reminder that every army here suffered terrible losses.
How do you visit El Alamein from Alexandria?
Drive about 110 km west along the coast road, which takes roughly 1.5–2 hours each way, and allow half a day in total. A typical private plan:
- 8.00am: leave Alexandria, passing the resort developments of the North Coast.
- 9.45am: Commonwealth War Cemetery and Alamein Memorial, about an hour.
- 11.00am: El Alamein Military Museum.
- 12.15pm: German and Italian memorials, then lunch on the coast.
- Afternoon: return to Alexandria by about 3.30pm, or continue west to Marsa Matruh and Siwa Oasis, as on our Ultimate Egypt 21-day tour.
It can also be done as a very long day from Cairo, about 3 hours each way via the desert road, but we recommend basing yourself in Alexandria. In July and August, coastal traffic to the summer resorts can add considerably to drive times.
Can you attend Anzac Day or anniversary commemorations?
Often, yes: the anniversary of the Second Battle in late October brings an international ceremony at the cemetery, and the Australian and New Zealand embassies in Cairo hold Anzac Day services each April; ask the embassies whether members of the public can attend that year. The October commemorations usually involve Commonwealth, German and Italian representatives, with ceremonies at each memorial. Remembrance Day on 11 November is also marked. Arrangements, venues and security requirements change from year to year, so contact the embassy well in advance and expect ID checks. Check current travel advice on Smartraveller or SafeTravel before you go.
Tips for a respectful visit
Dress modestly, keep voices low, stay on paths and never wander into the open desert. Unexploded mines and ordnance from 1942 still lie in parts of the Western Desert, so do not leave roads or marked areas. If you would like to leave a tribute, bring a small wreath, a poppy or a photograph; laying it at a headstone is welcome. There is little shade, so bring a hat and water, especially from May to October. Photographs are fine but be discreet if others are mourning. If you are bringing a family member's story, our trip planner can build the day around a specific grave or battlefield site.
El Alamein War Cemetery and Museum: FAQs
Are Australians buried at El Alamein?
Yes. Many soldiers of the 9th Australian Division, as well as Australian airmen, are buried in El Alamein War Cemetery, and others with no known grave are named on the Alamein Memorial.
How far is El Alamein from Alexandria?
About 110 km west, roughly 1.5–2 hours by road each way. Allow half a day for the visit.
How do I find a relative's grave at El Alamein?
Search the Commonwealth War Graves Commission's Find War Dead database before you travel and note the plot, row and grave reference. For New Zealanders, Auckland Museum's Online Cenotaph is another good source, and the Australian War Memorial's Roll of Honour is invaluable for Australians.
Is there an entry fee for El Alamein War Cemetery?
No, Commonwealth war cemeteries are free to enter. The military museum charges an entry fee; check current prices locally.
Is El Alamein safe to visit?
The cemetery, museum and memorials are on the main coast road and are visited regularly. Stay on roads and paths because of old mines, and check our safety guide and Smartraveller before you go.
