Rashid (Rosetta)

Why visit Rashid?

To stand where the key to hieroglyphs was found, and to walk streets of 18th- and 19th-century merchants' houses that are among the best-preserved Ottoman domestic buildings in Egypt. In Ottoman times Rashid was a busy river port, the place where cargo was shifted between Nile boats and sea-going ships, and its merchants grew rich on rice, cotton and trade with the Mediterranean.

The town's fortunes faded after Muhammad Ali reopened the Mahmudiya Canal to Alexandria in 1820, which is partly why so much survived. It is also remembered for repulsing a British force in 1807, when townspeople and soldiers trapped the invaders in its narrow lanes. Few foreign visitors come, which is much of the appeal: you are more likely to share the lanes with schoolchildren, donkey carts and fishermen mending nets than with tour groups, and the pace is slower than anywhere in Alexandria.

Where was the Rosetta Stone found?

At the fort north of the town, which the French were rebuilding as Fort Julien when an officer, Pierre-François Bouchard, recognised the inscribed slab in July 1799. The fort itself began as a late 15th-century work of the Mamluk sultan Qaitbay, the same ruler who built the Citadel of Qaitbay in Alexandria, which is why it is also called Fort Qaitbay of Rashid.

It stands on the west bank of the Nile, a few kilometres north of town towards the river mouth, with low walls and a replica of the stone. The original has been in the British Museum since 1802; our guide to the Rosetta Stone tells how it was deciphered, and Napoleon in Egypt covers the expedition that found it.

What are the Ottoman houses like?

Tall, narrow houses of alternating red and black brick laid in decorative patterns, with carved wooden mashrabiya screens jutting over the street and painted ceilings inside. The ground floors were storerooms and stables, the middle floors reception rooms, and the upper floors private family quarters screened by mashrabiya so women could see out unseen.

Around 20 historic houses are listed as monuments. Among those most often open are Beit al-Amasyali, with fine woodwork and inlaid ceilings, and Beit Arab Kali, home to the town's small museum with a replica of the stone and local history displays. Nearby you will find an Ottoman bathhouse, a restored animal-powered mill, and historic mosques such as the Mosque of Zaghloul. Which buildings are open varies with restoration work, so check locally.

What else is there to see?

The Nile corniche, the hill of Abu Mandour with its mosque and river views, and the palm groves that make Rashid famous for dates. Abu Mandour, a short drive south of the centre, gives the best panorama over the Rosetta Branch, which is lined with fishing boats.

At the river mouth (the boghaz), fresh water meets the sea and fishing boats come and go. Simple local restaurants near the river cook whatever came in that morning, usually mullet, bream or shrimp, so lunch on grilled fish is the obvious choice; our guide to seafood in Egypt explains how to order it by weight.

How do you plan a day trip from Alexandria?

Drive about 1–1.5 hours east, spend 3–4 hours in Rashid, and be back in Alexandria by late afternoon; you can stop at Abu Qir Bay on the way. A typical private plan:

• 8.30am: leave Alexandria along the coast road via Abu Qir and Edku.
• 10.00am: walk the old streets and visit two or three houses.
• 12.00pm: Fort Qaitbay (Fort Julien) and the river mouth.
• 1.30pm: fish lunch, then Abu Mandour for the view.
• 3.00pm: return to Alexandria, about 4.30pm.

From Cairo it is about 3–3.5 hours each way, too far for comfort in one day; stay in Alexandria instead (see where to stay).

Tickets and practical tips

Monuments in Rashid sell tickets on site; check what is open and current prices on egymonuments.gov.eg before you go.

• Hours: shorter than at the major sites, often finishing mid-afternoon, so start early.
• Guide: worthwhile, as signage is mostly in Arabic and keys to some houses are held by caretakers who may need to be found.
• Dress: Rashid is a conservative country town; cover shoulders and knees, and expect friendly curiosity rather than hassle.
• Season: October to April is the most comfortable; summer is hot and humid, and winter storms can bring rain off the sea.
• Facilities: simple; carry cash in small Egyptian pounds and bring water.