Christian Egypt: The Holy Family Trail, Coptic Cairo and the Desert Monasteries

Why is Egypt important to Christians?

Egypt is part of the Christian story from its very beginning: the Gospel of Matthew tells how the Holy Family fled to Egypt, tradition holds that St Mark founded the church in Alexandria, and Christian monasticism began in Egypt's deserts. St Anthony, often called the father of monks, withdrew into the Eastern Desert in the late 3rd century, and the monastic communities that grew up in Egypt inspired monasteries across the Christian world.

Today the Coptic Orthodox Church, led by the Pope of Alexandria, is the largest Christian community in the Middle East. Estimates of its share of Egypt's population vary, commonly around 10 per cent. Its churches and monasteries are living places of worship, not museums, and visitors are warmly welcomed.

What is the Holy Family trail?

The Holy Family trail follows the route that Coptic tradition says Joseph, Mary and the infant Jesus took through Egypt, from Sinai across the Nile Delta to Cairo and south into Middle Egypt, with more than 20 sites along the way. Egypt has developed the route for pilgrims, and in 2017 Pope Francis blessed an icon of the journey.

Key sites include:

• Coptic Cairo: the crypt of the Church of Abu Serga, where the family is said to have rested.
• Matariya, Cairo: the Virgin Mary's Tree, an old sycamore at the traditional resting place.
• Maadi, Cairo: the Church of the Virgin Mary, where tradition says the family boarded a boat south on the Nile.
• Wadi El Natrun: the desert valley the family is said to have passed through, later home to great monasteries.
• Gabal al-Tair, near Minya: the Church of the Virgin on a cliff above the Nile.
• Monastery of Al-Muharraq, near Assiut: where the Holy Family is said to have stayed longest, about six months.

The Cairo and Wadi El Natrun sites are easy to visit. The Middle Egypt sites involve longer drives, and travel there can require police escorts and carry different travel advice, so check Smartraveller first.

What to see in Coptic Cairo

Coptic Cairo, inside the walls of the Roman Babylon Fortress in Old Cairo, packs the city's oldest churches, a historic synagogue and the Coptic Museum into a few lanes; allow half a day.

• The Hanging Church (St Virgin Mary's): built over the gatehouse of the Roman fortress, which gives it its name, with a fine collection of icons.
• Abu Serga (Sts Sergius and Bacchus): one of the oldest churches in Cairo, with the crypt associated with the Holy Family. The crypt is not always open because of groundwater.
• Ben Ezra Synagogue: where the famous Cairo Geniza manuscripts were found.
• The Coptic Museum: the world's largest collection of Coptic art, with icons, textiles, manuscripts and carved stone.
• The Cave Church: in the Mokattam hills, the Monastery of St Simon the Tanner has a vast amphitheatre church cut into the cliff, seating thousands.

In Abbassia, St Mark's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral is the seat of the Coptic Pope in Cairo and holds relics of St Mark returned from Venice in 1968.

Which desert monasteries can you visit?

The two great monastic centres within reach of Cairo are Wadi El Natrun, on the road to Alexandria, and the monasteries of St Anthony and St Paul near the Red Sea.

• Wadi El Natrun: about 1.5–2 hours north-west of Cairo, the ancient Scetis has four working monasteries (St Macarius, St Bishoy, the Syrian Monastery and Baramous) with ancient churches, keeps and wall paintings. It fits neatly into a drive to Alexandria.
• St Anthony's Monastery: in the mountains near the Gulf of Suez, often described as the oldest active Christian monastery in the world, with restored medieval wall paintings and a steep climb to the cave where St Anthony lived.
• St Paul's Monastery: nearby, around the cave of St Paul the Hermit.

Monasteries may limit visits during major fasts, such as Lent, and on feast days, so we check before you go. A donation is appreciated.

Visiting Mount Sinai and St Catherine's Monastery

Mount Sinai (Jebel Musa, 2,285 metres), traditionally where Moses received the Ten Commandments, is usually climbed overnight to reach the summit for sunrise, followed by a visit to St Catherine's Monastery at its foot.

The climb takes about 2.5–3 hours on the camel path, finishing with around 750 steep steps; the alternative Steps of Repentance have about 3,750. Camels can carry you most of the way. It is very cold at the summit before dawn in winter, so bring warm layers.

St Catherine's, a Greek Orthodox monastery founded in the 6th century and part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, holds the Burning Bush, a famous collection of icons and one of the oldest libraries in the world. At the time of writing it opens to visitors only on limited mornings and closes on some days and religious holidays, so plan around its hours. The usual base is St Catherine village, about three hours from Sharm el-Sheikh. See our Sharm el-Sheikh & Sinai guide.

Christian sites in Alexandria

Alexandria was one of the great centres of early Christianity; tradition holds that St Mark brought the Gospel here in the 1st century and was martyred in the city, and the Coptic Pope still carries the title Pope of Alexandria.

Visit St Mark's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral, on the site associated with St Mark's church, then explore the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa, the Roman theatre at Kom el-Dikka and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. Read our Alexandria guide.

When should Christian travellers visit Egypt?

October to April is the best time for weather, and the Coptic calendar adds special occasions: Coptic Christmas on 7 January and Coptic Easter, which follows the Orthodox calendar and often falls on a different date from Western Easter. Attending a liturgy at these times is unforgettable, but churches are crowded and some sites close for services, so plan with care. Monasteries may restrict visits during long fasts. See the best time to visit Egypt.

How should you dress and behave at churches and monasteries?

Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and behave as you would in any place of worship.

• Women may like to carry a scarf; men should remove hats inside.
• Remove shoes where asked, especially in sanctuaries.
• Ask before photographing people, services or icons; flash is often not allowed.
• Keep voices low, and don't enter areas reserved for monks.
• A small donation is appreciated at monasteries.

More advice is in what to wear in Egypt.

How to plan a Christian Egypt tour

Allow 7–10 days for Coptic Cairo, Wadi El Natrun, Alexandria, the Red Sea monasteries and Mount Sinai, or add 3–4 days of Christian sites to a classic Egypt tour with a Nile cruise. Our 10-day Christian Egypt tour covers all the main sites as well as the Pyramids and the Grand Egyptian Museum, and our Egypt and Jordan tour (see the Egypt and Jordan travel guide) includes Mount Nebo, Madaba and the Baptism Site at Bethany beyond the Jordan.

We plan private tours for individuals, families and church groups from Australia and New Zealand, with guides who know Coptic history well. Tell us what you'd like to see.