Quick answer
The Black Desert is a stretch of orange sand and cone-shaped hills capped with dark volcanic and iron-rich rock, starting a short drive south of Bawiti in Bahariya Oasis. Most visitors spend 30–60 minutes here on the way to the White Desert, climbing a hill such as English Mountain for the view.
Why is the Black Desert black?
The hills are capped with hard, dark rock, a mix of volcanic dolerite and basalt and iron-rich sandstone and quartzite, and as the softer layers beneath erode, broken fragments tumble down and scatter across the sand like a sprinkling of soot. From a distance the slopes look as if they have been dusted with black powder; close up, the ground is a carpet of dark pebbles over orange-brown sand.
The hard caps protect the softer rock below, which is why many hills have the shape of small volcanoes or flat-topped pyramids even where they were never volcanic vents. The contrast with the chalk of the White Desert further south is the reason most trips visit both on the same day: within a couple of hours the landscape goes from black to white.
Climbing English Mountain
English Mountain, Gebel el-Ingliz in Arabic, is a steep-sided hill topped by the remains of a stone lookout post built by British forces during the First World War, and the climb to the top takes most people 15–20 minutes. During the campaign against the Senussi, whose forces moved through the Western Desert oases in 1915–17, the post watched the routes across the Bahariya depression. Only low stone walls survive, but the view explains the choice: dark hills, open plains and the green of the oasis in the distance.
- The path: there is no built trail, just a well-trodden line of loose stones. Wear closed shoes with grip; sandals slide.
- Coming down: the descent is harder than the climb. Take it slowly, sideways on the steepest parts.
- Not climbing? The view from the base is still good, and drivers can pick a gentler hill nearby.
Some operators instead climb an unnamed cone right beside the road, especially when time is short. Ask which hill is planned if the English Mountain view matters to you.
How long should you spend, and when?
Allow 30–60 minutes: enough for one climb, photographs and a tea break, before continuing south. Most itineraries pass through mid-morning or around midday on the way from Bawiti to the White Desert, or in the afternoon if you have spent the morning in Bahariya.
The dark stones absorb heat quickly, and by early afternoon in October or April the slopes can feel much hotter than the air temperature suggests. If you can, stop in the morning or late in the afternoon, when side light also brings out the shapes of the hills. In midwinter the climb is comfortable at any hour. Carry water, a hat and sunglasses even for a short walk; there is no shade.
If you are staying in Bahariya the night before, an early start lets you reach the Black Desert in the soft morning light, walk up a hill before the heat, and still have time for long stops further south. On the return journey to Cairo the order reverses, and the black hills make a final viewpoint before the long drive north.
Getting there from Bawiti
The Black Desert begins a short drive south of Bawiti along the paved road to Farafra; you can see the first black-topped hills from the road, but a 4WD is needed to reach the best viewpoints and the foot of the hills. Bawiti itself is about 370 km, or 4–5 hours, from Cairo.
The usual order on a desert day is the Black Desert first, then Crystal Mountain and the Agabat valley, arriving in the White Desert for sunset. A few operators also camp in the Black Desert itself, which is quieter and makes a dramatic, if less famous, campsite. Our guide to Egypt's deserts puts the region in context.
Photography tips
The best images use the contrast between black rock and orange sand, so shoot with the sun low and to one side rather than overhead. From the summit of a hill, a wide lens catches the procession of cones fading into haze; from the base, a figure on the ridgeline gives scale.
Fine dust gets into everything when the wind picks up, so change lenses inside the vehicle and keep a blower brush handy. Drones are not permitted for tourists in Egypt and are confiscated on arrival; see our photography guide for what to bring instead.
Permits and travel advice
The Black Desert is part of the standard Bahariya to White Desert route, which needs a desert permit and police registration arranged by a licensed operator. Expect checkpoints along the road, and carry your passport. Travel advice for the Western Desert can differ from the rest of Egypt, so check Smartraveller or SafeTravel before you book.
Black Desert: FAQs
Is the Black Desert volcanic?
Partly. The dark caps on the hills include volcanic rock such as dolerite and basalt, together with dark, iron-rich sandstone and quartzite. Erosion has scattered fragments of both across the sand.
How hard is the climb up English Mountain?
It is short but steep, about 15–20 minutes up on loose stones. Most reasonably fit people manage it in closed shoes; the descent needs the most care.
Why is it called English Mountain?
British forces built a lookout post on the summit during the First World War, during the campaign against the Senussi in the Western Desert. The ruins of its stone walls remain at the top.
Can you camp in the Black Desert?
Some operators offer it, and it is quieter than the White Desert. Most trips, though, continue south to camp among the chalk formations.
