Wadi el-Rayan

How did lakes appear in the desert?

The Wadi el-Rayan lakes are a modern creation: from the 1970s, surplus irrigation water from Fayoum's fields was diverted south through a canal into an empty desert depression, and it filled two basins, an upper and a lower lake. Where the water passes from the upper lake to the lower, it spills over a low limestone step in a series of small cascades. These are the famous waterfalls, a few metres high, gentle by Australian standards but striking against yellow sand.

The area was declared a protected area in 1989 and covers a huge sweep of desert that also takes in Wadi el-Hitan. Away from the lakes it supports desert wildlife such as Dorcas gazelles, fennec and Rüppell's foxes, and the lakes attract wintering waterbirds. As drainage volumes and evaporation change, the lakes' levels and saltiness shift too, so the falls can look different from year to year.

The main stops, in order

Most visits link four stops along the protected-area road: the waterfalls, the Magic Lake, the dunes and the Gebel el-Medawara viewpoint.

1. The waterfalls: the busiest spot, with simple cafés, shaded seating and paddling in the shallow pools below the falls. It is lively and very Egyptian at weekends, with families picnicking and boat rides on offer.
2. Gebel el-Medawara: a flat-topped hill beside the lower lake. A short, steep scramble gives the best view of the lake, the dunes and the springs below; allow 45 minutes.
3. The Magic Lake: a smaller lake ringed by high dunes in the far south of the area, so called because its colour shifts with the light from deep blue to green and turquoise. It is quieter than the falls and lovely in the late afternoon.
4. The dunes: the slopes around the Magic Lake are the usual place for sandboarding, with boards available from local operators.

Rocky sections of the area also hold the caves of a small, modern monastic community, which visitors should leave undisturbed unless they have arranged a visit.

Sandboarding and desert activities

Wadi el-Rayan is the closest proper dune country to Cairo, and sandboarding down the slopes above the Magic Lake is its favourite activity. Boards are waxed and simple; most people sit or lie on them the first few times, and the climb back up is the hard part. Sessions of an hour or so at sunset are ideal, when the sand is cooler and the light softens.

Operators also run 4WD dune drives and short quad-bike outings; choose a reputable outfit, insist on helmets and keep children on the gentler options. Overnight desert camps in the area combine a sunset, dinner by the fire and a starry night. Our guides to sandboarding in Egypt and desert camping cover safety and what to bring.

How long to spend and how to combine it

Half a day covers the waterfalls, the viewpoint and the Magic Lake, and most travellers pair Wadi el-Rayan with Wadi el-Hitan, which lies further down the same road. A realistic day from Giza: leave at 6.30am for Wadi el-Hitan, which is best before the heat, then return to the waterfalls for a late lunch, and finish at the Magic Lake dunes for sunset before the two-hour drive back.

That is a long day, so if you can, sleep in Tunis village or at a desert camp, which leaves time for Lake Qarun the next morning. Families with children often find the waterfalls and dunes are the highlight of the whole Fayoum.

Getting there, tickets and timing

Wadi el-Rayan is reached by private car from Cairo along the Cairo–Fayoum desert road and then the road south-west of Medinet el-Fayoum; allow about two to two and a half hours from Giza. The road to the waterfalls is paved, but tracks to the Magic Lake and the dunes are sandier, so a 4WD is useful. As a nature protectorate, it charges a separate protected-area entry fee per person and per vehicle at the gate; amounts change, so check locally.

October to April is the season. Fridays, Saturdays and public holidays are very busy at the falls, while weekdays are peaceful. In summer, come early or late and avoid the midday hours entirely.

Tips for a good visit

Keep expectations right about the waterfalls, bring cash and come prepared for sun and sand.

• The falls are modest; enjoy them as a setting rather than a spectacle.
• Bring small Egyptian pound notes for cafés, boards and boat rides.
• Wear sunglasses and a buff or scarf against windblown sand, especially in spring when the khamsin blows.
• Leave no rubbish: this is a protected area and litter is a problem at busy spots.
• Desert trips may be registered with police; your driver handles any checkpoints.