Wadi el-Gemal National Park

What is Wadi el-Gemal?

Wadi el-Gemal, the Valley of the Camels, is one of the largest valleys in Egypt's Eastern Desert, running down from the Red Sea Mountains to meet the coast south of Marsa Alam, and the national park around it protects both desert and sea. The park was declared in 2003 and covers several thousand square kilometres of land and marine area, including offshore islands and reefs.

Rain falls rarely, but when it does it floods down the wadi, which is why acacia trees, desert shrubs and grazing land survive here. Dorcas gazelles, Nubian ibex in the mountains, red foxes and many birds live in the park, and the coast is a nesting area for turtles and seabirds. It is a very different side of the Red Sea from the resort bays further north.

Meeting the Ababda

The Ababda are the traditional people of this stretch of the Eastern Desert, historically camel herders, guides and traders, and many trips into the park are led by Ababda guides. They speak Arabic, and their culture is related to that of the Beja peoples further south in Sudan.

The ritual most visitors encounter is jabana, coffee roasted over a fire, pounded with ginger and brewed in a clay pot with a narrow spout, poured into small cups and offered in rounds. It is polite to accept; giving the cup a shake signals you have had enough. Bedouin and Ababda traditions overlap but are not identical; our guide to Bedouin culture explains the wider picture. Ask before photographing people, and buy crafts directly where you can.

Mangroves and the Hamata islands

At Qulan, near Hamata about 110 km south of Marsa Alam town, mangroves grow along the shoreline in clear, shallow water, and boats leave for the Hamata islands, a group of small low islands with reefs and white sand. Mangroves are rare in Egypt, and these grey mangroves are a nursery for fish and a feeding ground for herons and other wading birds.

Snorkelling around the Hamata islands is excellent, with healthy hard coral, giant clams and reef fish, and the beaches are some of the most unspoilt on the coast. Rules on landing and on which islands can be visited are set by the park and have changed over the years, so go with a licensed operator. Hamata is also the usual departure point for Sataya Reef; see our guide to Samadai and Sataya.

Roman emerald mines at Sikait

Up in the mountains of the park lie the ancient emerald mines of Sikait and its neighbouring valleys, worked in the Ptolemaic and Roman periods and known to the Romans as Mons Smaragdus. They were the Roman Empire's main source of emeralds.

Remains include mine shafts, stone-built miners' settlements and a small rock-cut temple. Reaching them takes a 4WD trip up the wadi on rough tracks, typically as part of a full day with a guide. Conditions and access vary, and the site has very few facilities, so carry water and sun protection. Our guide to Roman Egypt explains how the Eastern Desert fitted into Rome's trade with India and Arabia.

How to visit Wadi el-Gemal

Visit with a licensed local guide or eco-lodge, on a half-day trip into the lower wadi or a full day combining the desert, the Ababda and the coast. A typical day might start early with a drive up the wadi, include a short walk among the acacias, coffee with an Ababda family and lunch, and finish with snorkelling in the afternoon.

Several eco-lodges and camps sit on the coast within or near the park; they are the best way to experience its quiet and its very dark night skies, covered in our stargazing in Egypt guide. A park entry fee applies to most visits; at the time of writing it is usually included in organised trips, but check.

When to go and tips

October to April is best for walking in the park, when days are warm rather than fierce; from June to September, keep desert time to the early morning. Winter nights in the desert are cool, so bring a warm layer for sunsets and stargazing.

• Wear closed shoes for the desert and reef shoes for mangrove and island landings.
• Take out all your rubbish; there are no bins in the wadi.
• Don't collect shells, coral, plants or stones; it is prohibited in the park.
• Read our advice on heat and sun safety before any desert outing.