Quick answer
The spices worth buying in Egypt are cumin, coriander, dukkah, dried hibiscus, black seed, fenugreek and dried molokhia, bought from an attar (spice seller) in Cairo's Al-Azhar and Khan el-Khalili area or in Aswan's souq. Skip the cheap Egyptian saffron, which is almost always safflower, buy whole spices in small vacuum-sealed packs, and declare everything when you land in Australia or New Zealand.
Which spices are used in Egyptian cooking?
Egyptian cooking leans on a short list: cumin and coriander above all, plus black pepper, chilli, cardamom, cinnamon, allspice and bay, with dried mint and dill for some dishes. It is a less spice-heavy cuisine than Indian or Moroccan cooking; flavour comes from garlic, onion, lemon and long cooking.
- Cumin (kammun): the defining spice of ful, ta'ameya and liver sandwiches.
- Coriander (kozbara): ground seed, fried with garlic for the taqliya that finishes molokhia, and fresh leaves in ta'ameya.
- Baharat: a warm mixed spice, usually allspice, pepper, cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, used for mince and rice dishes such as mahshi.
- Cardamom (habbahan): ground into coffee.
- Fenugreek (helba): in basterma paste, bread in Upper Egypt and as a hot drink.
What are the best spices and foods to buy in Egypt?
The best buys are things that are cheaper, fresher or hard to find at home: dukkah, dried hibiscus, whole cumin and coriander, black seed, dried molokhia, dates and good tahini.
- Dukkah: Egypt's own blend of toasted nuts and seeds, typically hazelnuts or peanuts with sesame, coriander and cumin, eaten with bread dipped in olive oil. Each seller has a recipe; ask to taste.
- Dried hibiscus: the deep red calyces for karkade, sold in sacks in Aswan. Light, cheap and easy to pack.
- Black seed (habbet el-baraka): nigella seeds, sprinkled on bread and cheese and pressed into oil that Egyptians use as a traditional remedy.
- Whole cumin and coriander: noticeably fresher and cheaper than supermarket jars at home.
- Dried molokhia: the leaves for Egypt's green stew, sold crumbled or as powder.
- Dates: especially from Siwa Oasis and the Western Desert, sold loose, pressed or stuffed with nuts.
- Mastic and frankincense: mastic resin flavours puddings and ice cream; frankincense is burnt at home.
Attar shops also sell rose and orange blossom water, henna, loofahs and herbal remedies, and often double as perfume-oil sellers; see our perfume oils guide.
Is Egyptian saffron real?
Almost never at bazaar prices: the bright red-orange threads sold cheaply as Egyptian saffron are usually safflower, a different flower that gives colour but little of saffron's flavour or aroma. Egypt is not a significant producer of true saffron.
Safflower (osfor) is a legitimate ingredient in its own right and is used in Egyptian cooking to colour rice and soups. The problem is only when it is sold as saffron, sometimes for a price that still sounds like a bargain. Real saffron is expensive everywhere because each crocus flower yields only three stigmas, picked by hand. Signs you are looking at safflower: a very low price, a bag of loose fluffy petals, and no trumpet-shaped thread ends. If you want saffron, buy a small sealed, labelled tin from a reputable shop and expect to pay a real price for it.
Where are the best spice and food markets in Egypt?
In Cairo, go to the spice shops around Al-Azhar and the southern end of Al-Muizz Street, next to Khan el-Khalili; in Aswan, walk the long souq street running parallel to the Corniche.
Cairo
The spice and attar shops cluster in the lanes between Al-Azhar Mosque and the Al-Ghouri complex, where pyramids of ground spices sit in front of shops lined with jars and sacks. It is a short walk from the Khan el-Khalili bazaar and works well combined with a walk along Al-Muizz Street. For a working fruit and vegetable market, Downtown's Souq el-Tawfiqiya and the older covered Bab el-Louq market show how Cairenes shop day to day.
Aswan
Aswan's souq is the most enjoyable spice market in Egypt for many visitors: calmer than Cairo, with sacks of hibiscus, peanuts, dried chillies, henna and dates, and Nubian baskets and scarves between the spice stalls. Evenings are best, when the heat has gone. More in our Aswan guide.
Luxor and elsewhere
Luxor's souq, near Luxor Temple, has spice stalls among the souvenir shops. In villages, weekly markets sell produce and livestock, and the camel market at Daraw, north of Aswan, is a colourful if very local sight for early risers.
How do you buy spices well in an Egyptian market?
Smell before you buy, buy small quantities of whole spices, ask for vacuum sealing, and agree the price per kilo before anything is weighed.
- Weight, not scoops: spices are priced per kilo. A rob' kilo (250 grams) of cumin will last an Australian kitchen many months; 100 grams is often enough.
- Whole over ground: ground spices in open pyramids look wonderful but lose aroma quickly in the heat. Whole seeds keep better and are easier to check.
- Vacuum packing: many shops in tourist areas will vacuum-seal and label your purchase, which keeps it fresh and helps at customs.
- Haggling: prices in tourist souqs are open to gentle negotiation, especially if you buy several things; see our haggling guide.
- Shop stops: spice shops visited on group tours may pay commission to guides. On a private trip you can ask to go to the shops locals use.
Can you take spices home to Australia or New Zealand?
Many dried spices can be brought into Australia and New Zealand, but you must declare all food, seeds and plant material on your incoming passenger card, and some items may be inspected, treated or seized.
Commercially packaged, clearly labelled spices are the easiest. Seeds that could be planted, fresh plant material, some dried herbs, nuts in their shells and anything containing meat or dairy face stricter rules, and the lists change. Biosecurity officers in both countries are strict, and undeclared food can mean an on-the-spot fine. Declaring an item that turns out to be allowed costs you nothing but a few minutes.
Before you shop, check the current import conditions on the Australian Department of Agriculture or New Zealand Ministry for Primary Industries websites, and read our guide to bringing souvenirs home. Hibiscus, cumin and dukkah in sealed packs are usually the least trouble.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the spice market in Cairo?
Spice and herb shops cluster in the lanes between Al-Azhar Mosque, the Al-Ghouri complex and Khan el-Khalili in Islamic Cairo. It is easy to combine with a walk along Al-Muizz Street.
What is dukkah?
Dukkah is an Egyptian blend of toasted nuts, sesame, coriander and cumin, crushed coarsely and eaten by dipping bread first in olive oil and then in the mix.
Is the saffron sold in Egyptian markets real?
Cheap Egyptian saffron is almost always safflower, a colouring flower with little flavour. Real saffron is expensive anywhere; buy a sealed, labelled product from a reputable shop if you want it.
Is Aswan good for buying spices?
Yes. Aswan's souq is relaxed and well stocked with hibiscus, spices, dates and peanuts, and evening shopping there is a highlight of many Nile trips.
Do I need to declare spices at Australian customs?
Yes. Declare all food and plant products. Many packaged spices are allowed after inspection, but some seeds and plant material are restricted. Check current biosecurity rules before you travel.
