Quick answer
Beni Hasan is a row of 39 rock-cut tombs high in the cliffs on the east bank of the Nile about 20–25 km south of Minya, carved for the governors of the Oryx province in the 11th and 12th dynasties, around 2000–1850 BC. Four are usually open, painted with wrestlers, farmers, craftsmen and a caravan of foreign traders. Allow two to three hours including the climb.
Who was buried at Beni Hasan?
The upper row of tombs belonged to the nomarchs, the hereditary governors of the Oryx province, who ruled this stretch of the valley in the Middle Kingdom with the wealth and confidence of small kings. When royal power revived under the 12th Dynasty, these local families kept their position by serving the crown, and their tombs record titles, estates and careers in long inscriptions.
Below them, the slope holds hundreds of shaft graves for lesser officials, excavated by John Garstang in the early 1900s; many of the wooden models of boats, granaries and workers now in museums around the world came from them. For the wider period, see our guide to the Middle Kingdom.
The four tombs you are most likely to see
Of 39 tombs, usually four are open to visitors, and between them they show nearly every activity of Middle Kingdom life.
Amenemhat (No. 2)
A columned hall with fluted, many-sided columns, often called "proto-Doric" because they look so like later Greek ones. Its long biographical inscription describes the governor's military expeditions and how no one in his province went hungry.
Khnumhotep II (No. 3)
The most famous tomb, best known for a procession of 37 "Aamu", Asiatic visitors from the east led by a chief named Abisha, in striped, colourful robes, bringing eye paint with donkeys, women and children. It is one of the most vivid pictures of foreigners in Egyptian art. There are also detailed bird-trapping, fishing and farming scenes.
Baqet III (No. 15) and Khety (No. 17)
Both tombs have walls covered with rows of wrestlers, pair after pair locked in different holds, painted in contrasting skin tones so you can follow each grip. Along with scenes of soldiers attacking a fortress, they read almost like a training manual. You will also see weavers, acrobats and dancers.
Why are the wrestling scenes famous?
They are the most complete record of wrestling technique to survive from the ancient world, with several hundred figures painted in sequence across whole walls. The scenes seem to show the training of soldiers, and the holds, throws and grips would be recognisable to wrestlers today. Your guide can point out how the artist alternated dark and light figures so each pair reads clearly. The paint is faded and partly obscured by ancient soot, so give your eyes time to adjust and use a torch where permitted.
Speos Artemidos, a short walk south
About 2 km south of the main tombs, in a quiet side valley, is the Speos Artemidos, a rock-cut temple begun by Hatshepsut for Pakhet, a local lioness goddess. Its facade inscription attacking the memory of the Hyksos rulers is one of the best-known texts of her reign, and later kings added their names. The Greeks equated Pakhet with Artemis, hence the name. Ancient cat burials were found in the area. It takes about an hour with the walk or drive and is usually empty.
Getting there and planning your visit
Beni Hasan is about 20–25 km south of Minya on the east bank, reached by road along the river or by a short ferry from Abu Qurqas on the west bank, depending on current arrangements. From the car park, a long stairway and path climb the cliff to the terrace of tombs; take it slowly in warm weather. The view from the top, over palm groves and the Nile to the farmland of the west bank, is one of the finest in Middle Egypt.
A morning at Beni Hasan and Speos Artemidos leaves time to return to Minya for lunch, or to continue to Tuna el-Gebel and Hermopolis in the afternoon. Tell el-Amarna needs its own day. Our Egypt for history lovers tour includes Beni Hasan.
Tickets, safety and tips
Beni Hasan has its own antiquities ticket; check current prices and hours on egymonuments.gov.eg. Which tombs are open can change.
Before you travel, read Smartraveller or SafeTravel, because Middle Egypt has its own travel advice. Police escorts and checkpoints may apply, so allow extra time.
- Go early: the climb and the terrace are in full sun by mid-morning.
- Wear shoes with grip; the steps are uneven.
- Photography rules inside the tombs vary; ask the guard before using a camera.
- Bring a torch: the tombs are lit, but a beam helps pick out faded detail on the upper registers.
- There are few facilities beyond a simple rest house, so carry water and snacks from Minya.
Beni Hasan suits travellers who enjoy reading a wall slowly. Ask your guide to start with the wrestlers in Baqet III, then move to Khnumhotep II for the caravan, and finish in Amenemhat's hall to compare the architecture: that order builds from the most immediate scenes to the subtlest.
Beni Hasan: FAQs
How many tombs are open at Beni Hasan?
Usually four of the 39 upper tombs: Amenemhat, Khnumhotep II, Baqet III and Khety. The selection can change.
How hard is the climb at Beni Hasan?
It is a long stairway and path up the cliff, manageable for most people with a reasonable level of fitness if taken slowly. Go early to avoid the heat.
What are the Asiatics in the tomb of Khnumhotep II?
A painted group of 37 foreign visitors, probably from the Levant or Sinai, bringing eye paint to the governor. It is one of the most detailed images of foreigners in Egyptian art.
Can you visit Beni Hasan and Amarna on the same day?
It is possible but rushed. Most travellers give Amarna its own day and combine Beni Hasan with Tuna el-Gebel.